malibu

i got to surf malibu today.  what an awesome wave.  i cant even imagine what that place is like when it is firing.  but there were glimpses of what it could produce.  to be able to glide with such ease and comfort is so refreshing.  the sweet spot is known, and there is no issue always getting back to it.  it just pushes and pushes, and you pull out, and you realize why you ride a log and why you stay stoked.  

there were probably 6 guys out around 6am, all inviting and pretty chill.  the contest started and it pushed us to "thirds", which was just as fun.  i got out of the water around 8am with only complete content.  i hope i dont over surf malibu, and slowly take such a magical place for granted.  but that is the addiction of glide, always looking for the "perfect" wave.  i am fortunate enough to be able to compare any future waves and swells to malibu.