we arrived around 2pm and got to drive the coast, just for a glance at one of the most recognizable spots in the world, malibu. there was a grom competition going, but none the less, the wave was perfect. i couldn't help myself staring at the form and length of this wave, not to mention that there were a thousand people on the beach. but 4 groms got to surf the sickest right i seen all the way to the beach. They were not snaked, cut-off, sharing, or even embarking in a "party wave." I can honestly say, this was the first time i was actually jealous that I was not a part of a surf contest.
i will be here for 10 days, driving, surfing, and just living. Hopefully, i will have some interesting stories to tell.....
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