Saturday, August 29, 2009

santa monica

escential has arrived in a mix of texas air, asheville people, and a little bit of cannes, france.  these are all previous places i have been, and for some odd reason i seem to compare all these places to santa monica, california.  the air has a dry heat, but you can feel the cool sneaking in.  

we arrived around 2pm and got to drive the coast, just for a glance at one of the most recognizable spots in the world, malibu.  there was a grom competition going, but none the less, the wave was perfect.  i couldn't help myself staring at the form and length of this wave, not to mention that there were a thousand people on the beach.  but 4 groms got to surf the sickest right i seen all the way to the beach.  They were not snaked, cut-off, sharing, or even embarking in a "party wave."  I can honestly say, this was the first time i was actually jealous that I was not a part of a surf contest.  

i will be here for 10 days, driving, surfing, and just living.  Hopefully, i will have some interesting stories to tell.....

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