Thursday, September 3, 2009

malibu part3

another early morning at malibu.  i got up around 530 and headed out, hoping for some kind wave.  to my delight, it was waist to chest on sets.  there were 15 people out, sharing the stoke.  one of the surfers was daniel (the guy in the main pic).  daniel is a sick surfer, and he only uses the escentials for speed, style, and glide.  it was cool meeting daniel and sharing some conversation.  

we ended up surfing for a couple hours, but the waves were still there.   another great experience at malibu.  i wish i woke up to that point.... maybe i will

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